This is a follow-up to a post last week where my water pump went bad and I had to replace it.
In the process, I’ve been learning a lot about likely upcoming failures. I’ve been told by a couple of different mechanics that both the turbos and the transmission often have issues around 150,000 miles. I’m currently at around 145,000 miles, so I’m feeling stressed. Has anyone experienced any of these issues, and how expensive were the repairs?
2016 3.5 Ecoboost
I have a 2011 3.5 EB. I had to replace a leaky turbo, rear main seal, and water pump around 160k miles. I’m now at 175k and had to change the throttle body last week due to a P2111 code, which isn’t uncommon in higher-mileage Ecoboost engines. My transfer case motor also needs to be replaced, but I don’t use 4x4, so it’s not urgent. Aside from those repairs, I’ve had to change spark plugs more frequently than expected, but nothing major has gone wrong. Overall, it’s been a reliable truck over 140k miles.
I wouldn’t worry too much about potential problems. I’m at 283k miles, and the only engine issue I’ve had was the water pump. The only transmission issue was the temp sensor, which cost $800 CAD at the dealership. You’ll drive yourself crazy worrying about what ‘might’ go wrong. Nothing is guaranteed to break. However, new truck payments are guaranteed to come out of your bank account every month if you go that route!
@Cheryl
It’s easier to budget for a monthly truck payment than it is to deal with a sudden $5000 repair bill if/when it happens. Mechanical parts wear out, and at some point, they break.
I have a 2015 F150, 3.5L Ecoboost. At 125,000 miles, my transmission speed sensor went bad, which required a Lead Frame replacement. Unfortunately, the Lead Frame was backordered, and the only repair option was to replace the entire Valve Body, turning a $700 repair into $1,350. At 165,000 miles, my starter died which caused a tow to AAA, and then another to the dealer after AAA couldn’t diagnose it. I had to pay $1,000 for the starter replacement. While at the dealer, they noted an ‘ABS light’ that wasn’t present when towed, and they wanted a ‘diagnostic fee’ to give an estimate. I read the code and replaced a Driver Side Rear Wheel Speed Sensor for $26 myself in 15 minutes. Around the same time, I started smelling a ‘burned coolant’ odor, which some suggested was due to turbo coolant leaks— that could have cost thousands. Eventually, I traded the truck.
@Vernon
This guy again? Nobody cares.
Dalen said:
@Vernon
This guy again? Nobody cares.
Impressive…
I have a 2016 3.5 Ecoboost with 197,000 miles. I haven’t encountered any transmission or water pump issues, and the only turbo problem was a coolant leak on the driver’s side turbo requiring a line and fittings replacement. I also replaced the throttle body around 150,000 miles. Overall, it’s been a great truck.
Yeah! Mine’s been great so far too. It runs well and is super comfortable. I appreciate all the information. I might just gamble on keeping it for a while longer.
Copper tubing erodes over time at the bend where it goes into the turbo. Heat can stiffen the rubber seal there, causing leaks. If one leaks, replace both because the other will likely fail soon. That could be a $5K job, especially if you go to a dealer who has to take the cab off to do the work.
The transmission control module can fail too, resulting in stuck gears. I lost 1-3 and had intermittent reverse, but Ford’s recall made the repair free.
Make sure to change your fluids regularly, especially engine oil. Don’t extend the oil life indicator. A tuner can reprogram the ECM for 87 octane fuel, reducing problems too.
@Shawn
Yeah, I’ve heard turbos typically don’t fail as long as you maintain the coolant and oil lines, but they can become problematic when it comes to oil consumption. If they start leaking, that leads to expensive repairs. So altogether, you’re suggesting it could cost around $10k for those issues?
@Clove
You can find turbos online if you need replacements. I got mine from Huntington Beach Ford on eBay. I rebuilt the driver’s side turbo due to a coolant leak. For oil consumption issues, consider getting an oil can separator—it really helps. Just remember to empty it regularly, especially in colder weather when you’ll catch more condensation.
Be cautious about who you buy parts from. You don’t need bigger turbos, and some aftermarket rebuilds may not last. If my stock turbos lasted 190k miles, I believe another set of OEMs will as well.
After I tuned it, I noticed significant improvements, like the elimination of rattles and the hesitation from low-octane fuel. If you’re blowing oil out of the turbo, that typically points to a leaking line rather than an inherently bad turbo. A good soaking and proper care can do wonders. Usually, turbos fail only if the impeller bearing goes bad, which requires a more invasive check.